Always in Colour Autumn / Winter 2020 Editorial
I wrote an AW 2020 editorial piece for Always in Colour with some recommendations for the new season that includes new pieces from Folk, Norse Projects, Carhartt and Satta. Photographed and styled by the in-house AIC photographer, check out the gorgeous shots taken of AIC store manager Mike in Devon with my accompanying suggestions. You can read below or over on the Always in Colour blog.
With the first signs of autumn starting to show, the time to consider which key pieces to introduce into your everyday wardrobe is approaching. Whether you’re seeking a go-to jacket or hybrid footwear that blends effortlessly from the city to the countryside, or updates on core styles such as t-shirts and sweats for essential comfort during crisp mornings - textural fabric blends, striking patterns and light tailoring are on the horizon. Helping you to update your seasonal selection we’ve noted key trends for the season and what to look out for over the coming months.
Perhaps the biggest trend ahead this autumn and winter is texture. With more attention being brought to the manufacture and longevity of materials in support of a ‘buy less but better’ movement, fine wale corduroy continues to be the fabric of choice for much of the outerwear and accessories being offered for the colder seasons. Well known for its natural durability and warmth, corduroy made a solid return a few years ago and has remained in the spotlight ever since thanks to its ability to add retro flare to a variety of silhouettes, such as trousers and shorts. Plush fleece is a champion fabric that has gained popularity through a distinctive ‘Outdoorsy’ streetwear trend that was initially established as a subculture in Japan before it made its way west. Remaining a firm favourite for a more casual day to day look, new variations from Folk include a Funnel Fleece style whilst Patagonia’s sustainable variations utilise 100% recycled polyester to achieve the same cosy effect with reduced environmental impact. For those who are strictly supporting natural fibres for a more organic approach to a new season wardrobe, look to the Rudy Knitted Sweatshirt from A.P.C. and Scottish knitwear label Shetland Woolen Co. are returning with an array of new seasonal colourways in their much-loved Heavy Brushed Shaggy Crewneck which has an attractive finish that offers the personality of the rugged Shetland Isles and necessary warmth in one.
There is never any doubt that t-shirts will be offered in abundance with each seasonal collection, acting as a wearable canvas for brands to present their own personality across essential short and long sleeve silhouettes. Whilst the same previously mentioned subdued tones are prominent across new designs, detailed prints and contrasting combinations ensure there is still intrigue across the variety on offer, whether the adornment includes playful screen printed artwork or a custom variation on a nautical inspired striped pattern - a classic design that is always done best by French heritage brand Armor Lux. Not stopping at t-shirts, individual takes on animal print and psychedelic patterns are expected across fleece hiking-inspired jackets, knitted sweaters and gilets as a further homage to nature but with a contemporary update through sharper lines and modern colour washes. As seen on attendees of Milan Fashion week back in the spring, a suggestion for doubling up prints through a matching top and trouser combination with a block colour overcoat is a great way to incorporate a bolder pattern without losing a sense of refinement - this can easily be achieved with designs such as the Universal Works Austin Fleece Waistcoat which adds extra warmth when worn as a mid layer and boasts an enlarged check print.
A trend for patchwork decoration reflects references pulled from popular looks of the ‘90s and has been presented perfectly across striped shirting styles by Wood Wood. Extending across core t-shirts, shirts and pullover menswear designs, different panelling at the sleeves and body presents a striking look and brighter colour combinations result in a more modern look with nylon pockets against sherpa outerwear. Panelled construction across knitted sweatshirts from Folk add a playful touch to an essential cold weather design that makes a statement when worn alone, or paired with a block coloured overcoat. Likewise, patchwork effects have also been achieved across a variety of footwear styles, demonstrating a progression within an underlying trend that has made an appearance across Nike Waffle Racer and Nike Daybreak-Type sneakers for spring. Experimental, creative and encouraging of an ongoing DIY trend, the idea of patchwork goes hand in hand with more attention being brought to the longevity of designs through personalised patch and repair jobs. The idea of patchwork may not be new, but is set to strengthen over the coming months.
As trouser shapes get slimmer, jackets and coats are set to become more oversized. Exaggerated tailoring is notable across simplistic workwear jackets which remain a firm favourite thanks to their timeless appeal which is encouraged further this season by a rich array of earth-inspired colour tones. Additionally, trench coats and ‘90s inspired parkas with strap detailing are set to become more desirable, acting as a replacement to last year's popular insulated puffer. Elongated hemlines are notable across more formal jackets and whilst there aren’t set to be any ‘80s style power shoulders on display, a variety of collar silhouettes add an intriguing touch to workshop style jackets - we look to Vetra and Oliver Spencer each season for high quality variations complete with personalised, conscious detailing.
As greater attention is brought to sustainable manufacture and production, an emphasis on quality and versatility is notable across AW20 designs, in addition to an increased demand for natural fibres where possible. As the consideration of our natural environment becomes ever more pressing, outdoor landscapes and tones of the earth continue to play a part in inspiring colour and texture choices as a reflection of a greater connection to the planet becoming increasingly more popular around the world. Whether you’re dressing for the office, at home or for travel, a blend of casual comfort with a more refined look in comparison to recent seasons has been achieved across the board, indicating an ongoing demand for practical yet sophisticated styling that can be achieved through day to day essentials.